Recipe Source: Orsini, Fr. Giuseppe. Italian Baking Secrets. St. Martin's Press, New York, 2007 pp. 124 and 130 - 1.
I have to admit that I'm always a little weirded out by this book. The author is an apparently retired Roman Catholic priest. I grew up in the Roman Catholic faith (not that I was ever very good at it) and priests were always... well, apart from the rest of us. It was hard to imagine them doing something so prosaic as cooking, or washing clothes, or anything domestic. Furthermore, Catholic priests are men, and in my family men were strongly discouraged from entering the kitchen. (My recently deceased grandmother was absolutely horrified to learn that I "allowed" my then-boyfriend, now spouse, to cook. She actually asked if I'd discussed it with a priest.)
So these are deep-seated attitudes, ones I've struggled to overcome in general. As I've gotten older I've learned to accept that men of the cloth, regardless of the religion involved, are humans. They have interests and basic human needs, such as clean clothes and full bellies. How are they supposed to fill those needs if they don't wash their clothes or cook? And I have since met many men who are quite good cooks, which means that I no longer recoil at the thought of someone with y-shaped chromosomes setting foot in my kitchen. (For that matter, my father himself was certainly competent in the kitchen, when he could sneak in there. To this day my favorite tofu dish is one he invented on the spot, and he could do wonderful things with the trout he caught.)
But still, turning to a priest as a culinary authority seems quite odd. I feel like I'm entering into the confessional every time I open the book. "Bless me, Father, for I have sinned. My last baking attempt was one week ago. My pies look like an alien from original Star Trek. What am I doing wrong?" You'll note that this very pronounced sense of the "out-of-place" doesn't stop me from opening this book, though. Because Fr. Orsini has never steered me wrong. The recipes he offers are all dishes that I barely remember Old Aunties showing up to family events with, or making appearances at Christmas. It's like I can reach back and touch a part of my heritage, part that I could never access before. Furthermore, they're all good recipes that are written in a way that makes sense.
I turned to Fr. Orsini again for inspiration around the Fourth of July. My friends were hosting a barbeque and I didn't want to show up empty-handed. Recently I read a cookbook, focused on the Mediterranean, that really gave me the impression that the (non-Italian) author looked down on Italian-American cooking, so I really wanted to do something that showcased my heritage. Finally, when I saw "hazelnut" and "chocolate" together in the title, I knew I had to have it. I only made one change to the original recipe. I omitted the candied orange peel, because I couldn't find it. I'll admit that didn't break my heart, because I'm not a huge fan of the stuff even when I can find it, otherwise I'd make a bunch of it and always have it on hand.
The result was a tasty cake, but not necessarily a pretty one. The cake part kind of created a bubble, with a shell on the top, empty space for a little bit, and then cake. I'm not sure why this happened. The cake was also a little dry, possibly the result of overcooking on my part, but certainly not so dry as to render it inedible. Try this cake sometime soon!
Hazelnut Cake with Chocolate Glaze (serves 10; approx. $1.15/serving)
1 stick butter, softened
4 tablespoons sugar
1 egg
1/4 cup whole milk
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon vanilla
1 cup all-purpose flour
1 cup whole wheat flour
1 cup hazelnuts, toasted and skinned
1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar
1 stick plus 2 tablespoons unsalted butter at room temperature
1 egg plus two egg yolks, room temperature
5 ounces bittersweet chocolate.
6 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 1/2 teaspoons light corn syrup
Equipment:
- 9" tart pan with removable bottom
- Food processor
- Stand mixer with both paddle and whisk attachments
- Saucepan with a metal bowl, or a double boiler
- Pastry brush
- Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
- In the stand mixer, cream together 1 stick unsalted butter with 4 tablespoons sugar.
- Add the egg.
- Dissolve the baking powder and the vanilla into the milk, then add to the mixture in the bowl of the stand mixer. Beat until smooth.
- Add the flours and blend until the dough comes together.
- Lubricate the tart pan with your lubricant of choice, then press the dough into the pan with your fingers.
- Prick the bottom and sides all over with a fork and bake 20 minutes. Remove from the oven.
- Meanwhile, make the filling. Grind the hazelnuts with 2 tablespoons sugar in the food processor to a fine powder. Reserve a few hazelnuts to garnish the cake.
- Add in the remaining sugar and process.
- Remove to the bowl of your stand mixer (which you have, of course, cleaned.)
- Add one stick and two tablespoons butter to the hazelnut and sugar mixture. Cream until light and fluffy, about 5 minutes.
- Change to the whisk and add the egg and egg yolks, one at a time, beating thoroughly after each addition.
- Pour into the tart shell and smooth the top.
- Bake 35 - 40 minutes. Cool on a wire rack.
- Fashion a double boiler out of a saucepan and a metal bowl. Fill the saucepan with water and bring barely to a simmer.
- Combine the remaining butter with the chocolate and the corn syrup in the bowl. Stir until melted.
- Paint the glaze over the cake.
- Enjoy, garnished with the hazelnuts.
