Recipe: Medieval Quince Preserve (Tarbib al-safarjal)

Recipe Source: al-Warraq, Ibn Sayyar.  Annals of the Caliph's Kitchens, Nawal Nasrallah trans.  Brill Press, Leiden, 2007 p. 486

First, let me apologize for the quality of the photograph.  I'm finding it very difficult to take decent pictures of jams and preserves.  The camera can't seem to decide what to focus on, and of course I can't do it manually because I'm farsighted and all you'd get would be pictures of the background.  At least you get a good idea of the color of the dish, and that's important because the colors of some of these preserves have just been breathtaking. 

So, onto the jam.  There are three ingredients.  That's it, just three.  This recipe should be an eye-opener to anyone who thinks medieval recipes are all long, complex and full of random and unnecessary spices.  You've got your quince, your honey and your water.  The preservative and antibiotic effects of honey have been known for centuries, and the author makes full use of them here.  Honey and quince also go fabulously together, a match clearly made in Heaven. 

Tarbib al-Safarjal (makes 7 8-oz jars; approx. cost per serving not available)

5 quinces, quartered and roughly chopped

5 lb honey, divided

3 cups water

Equipment:

• Large saucepan
• Colander
• Stockpot for the jars
• Tongs
• Boiling water canner

1. Combine the quinces, 2 lb honey and 3 cups water in the saucepan.  Bring to a boil.
2. Let the combination boil for a few minutes, scumming as you can. 
3. Drain the quinces.  Try not to cry at the thought of all that wonderful honey going down the drain.
4. Put the quinces back in the pot.  Add the remaining honey and bring to a boil.  I'd recommend doing this over medium-low heat just to avoid the possibility of scorching the honey and wrecking your saucepan. 
5. Reduce the heat and simmer the honey and quinces until the quinces are "well done."  This will take a while; the goodness of quinces is only unlocked by those with patience.  I judged them to be "well done" when they were soft enough that I would consider eating them. 
6. In the meantime, put your jars and lids and bands into the saucepan.  Fill with water and heat that water to 180 degrees.  Fill your canner with water and bring that also to 180 degrees.
7. When the quinces are ready, ladle them into the prepared jars.  Top with the lids and bands, then lower them into the boiling water canner. 
8. Process 30 minutes, then remove and allow to cool.  Label and store.